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And sooner or later, they find their way to a Reddit forum called Repsneakers. Collectors and resellers camped out in front of specialty sneaker stores days before new Yeezy releases. Tech-savvy buyers downloaded bots that would scan online retailers for Yeezys the moment they became available. The shoe’s success even inspired other pop star and clothing brand tie-ups like Rihanna for Puma and Beyonce for Topshop.

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“To the untrained eye they are still billboards for the brand,” Elliot Curtis, who teaches a Sneakerology 101 course at Carnegie Mellon University, said of replicas and their fans. Today, anti-counterfeiting officials say fighting fakes is akin to swatting at a growing swarm of gnats. There are fewer middlemen to arrest now that buyers can order directly from manufacturers. And contraband is shipped in small, inconspicuous packages. Nike remains the overwhelmingly dominant athletic footwear brand in the U.S., commanding 37.7% of the industry’s market share by revenue in July, according to NPD Group.

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